| A pre-departure and safety briefing is given | | | | guides see it as a job perk and the habit is |
| by your guide the evening before your launch | | | | unlikely to be broken. The usual routine is |
| - usually at Kariba Breezes Hotel. Safety is | | | | to find a safe spot under a large Tamarind |
| the foremost concern of the guide and | | | | tree, set up a cold lunch and find a |
| operators. | | | | comfortable spot for a bed roll and some |
| | | | light reading. |
| Any safari activity should be considered | | | | |
| potentially hazardous and whilst all | | | | Fishing tackle is a good idea for more active |
| reasonable efforts and precautions are taken | | | | participants - be sure to request this |
| by operators, the guides are rigourously | | | | specifically when making your reservation, |
| trained, are qualified and experienced - | | | | alternatively bring a light rod and a no.3 |
| their instructions on the day must be | | | | Mepps spinner (bacon pieces are considered a |
| strictly adhered to. The briefing is often | | | | delicacy by the local Tiger Fish). Fishing on |
| your first opportunity to meet your safari | | | | the river is excellent, the river Tiger put |
| companions - a good time to ask questions and | | | | up a better fight than on those on Lake |
| bail out if in doubt. The first day starts | | | | Kariba. The day's catch, if any is prepared |
| shortly after breakfast with a quick shopping | | | | at night. |
| stint in Nyamhunga or Mahombekombe to collect | | | | |
| last minute sun creams, beverages and | | | | The pace of the afternoon's paddling session |
| personal snacks etc. | | | | depends largely upon whether or not a morning |
| | | | wind came up or not. Usually it's a leisurely |
| The launch onto the Zambezi River | | | | paddle until an hour or so before sunset. |
| | | | Zambezi Valley sunsets compare with amongst |
| The Kariba launch is just downstream of the | | | | the best in the world and that applies |
| dam wall not far from the now derelict | | | | throughout the year whether it's smoke haze |
| Nyamasowa camp - it's a 30 minute walk down | | | | from bush fires in the winter months or |
| to the river. | | | | crystal air and cloudy backdrops in the |
| | | | summer. |
| Launches from Chirundu and Nyamepi follow a | | | | |
| two hour drive from Kariba (look out for | | | | Meals and stuff... |
| TenKayTom, a large male leopard near the 10 | | | | |
| 12km pegs on the Makuti road). | | | | Meals are more than adequate and there are |
| | | | plenty of leftovers for the fish. Mealtimes |
| Launches from Zambia follow after completing | | | | always provide a good opportunity to put your |
| customs and immigration formalities at the | | | | bush cooking skills to the test - and if you |
| Kariba/Siavonga or Chirundu border posts. | | | | don't care to subject your companions to |
| | | | anything dodgy then you can just clean up |
| The launch itself is often a harried affair | | | | instead... |
| with porters and guides trying to organise | | | | |
| their lives, stow excess baggage/food/ice | | | | Breakfast consists of cereal, tinned fruit, |
| drinks and generally get under way. | | | | bacon, eggs, sausages etc. (Fresh fruits are |
| | | | not permitted in Mana Pools - they attract |
| Underway at last... | | | | the attention of some of the larger raiders.) |
| | | | |
| Before you know it, another safety briefing | | | | |
| is complete, you've forgotten all your | | | | Lunches are usually made up of cold meats and |
| paddling instructions and you're on the | | | | salads. |
| mighty Zambezi. Steering and paddling | | | | |
| disputes generally break out immediately - | | | | Suppers vary: spaghetti bolognaise, beef |
| the first pod of hippos has a remarkable | | | | stew, roast chicken etc. with vegetables. |
| focussing effect on the mind and order | | | | |
| settles in pretty sharpishly. Any thoughts of | | | | Vegetarian and other dietary preferences are |
| urban ritual and the civilized world are | | | | catered for but must be specified when making |
| already long gone. | | | | your reservation. Complimentary wine is |
| | | | usually served with dinners. |
| The Zambezi is remarkable world of its own. | | | | |
| The views from the river across thick | | | | Other alcoholic and special softdrink |
| riverine forest onto the escarpment are pure | | | | preferences need to be arranged in advance - |
| therapy. The birdlife demands attention even | | | | alcohol should be consumed in strict |
| from people who have never give wild birds a | | | | moderation on safari. There is no shortage of |
| second thought. Large game particularly | | | | cordials and fresh drinking water in the |
| buffalo, elephant and hippo receive immediate | | | | canoes. The river water is considered safe to |
| and dedicated attention at the expense of the | | | | drink but the risk of a tummy bug |
| birds, scenery etc. | | | | jeopardising a trip isn't worth it so use |
| | | | what's supplied or take your own. |
| The canoeing routine (?!) | | | | |
| | | | "Doug" and "Lucy" are standard ablution |
| The river routine establishes itself within a | | | | tools. Doug is a small spade, Lucy is a fold |
| few hours and before long the first night | | | | up toilet seat. (Doug has a brother called |
| stop is reached. Camp setups are done to a | | | | "Wunderbar".) Shrubs, reeds and trees afford |
| formula (kitchen set up with all equipment | | | | plenty of privacy - some of the views into |
| and utensils laid out strictly, shower unit | | | | the mountains and across the river during |
| up, tents and mosquito nets laid out) - | | | | moments of deep contemplation are |
| almost military precision in about 20 | | | | spectacular. Avoid undertaking your own |
| minutes. Sleeping arrangements vary from two | | | | "private safari" in order to maximise |
| man dome tents to a simple mosquito net over | | | | privacy. All tissue and toilet paper is |
| paddle affair - double bed if necessary. For | | | | burnt. The campsites are hygienic and show no |
| the more intrepid, the simple net is | | | | sign of over use - operators police |
| definitely the way to go. The stars shine | | | | conditions and are quick to raise complaints |
| brighter and buffalo, elephant or hippo | | | | if any stopover site is left untidy. |
| wanderers in the small hours add spice. | | | | |
| | | | Some basic canoeing rules... |
| The daily routine is usually an early | | | | |
| paddling start after sunrise to cover ground | | | | -never start a water fight downwind, |
| before the wind picks up by mid morning. This | | | | |
| is followed by a full (English type) | | | | -always be prepared for a water fight when |
| breakfast on a suitable stopover site. The | | | | you're most relaxed, |
| river flows at approximately 4 km/hour. | | | | |
| Previous canoeing experience isn't necessary | | | | -always be very wary when the guide suggests |
| - 90% of the steerage comes from aft - newly | | | | a social raft, |
| weds shouldn't paddle in the same canoe. The | | | | |
| canoes are the Canadian standard. The entire | | | | -always gang up against the guide, |
| canoeing safari isn't strenuous (unfit torsos | | | | |
| will feel aches at night but ten minutes of | | | | -always punish over-enthusiastic paddlers - |
| paddling the next morning clears any lactic | | | | drinking cups on a short lead make ideal "sea |
| acid build up). The route is restricted to | | | | anchors", |
| shallow waters out of the way of hippo. | | | | |
| Swimming is not recommended in the Zambezi - | | | | -never openly celebrate a birthday on the |
| wallowing on large and very shallow sand | | | | river - elephant pats are aplenty on the |
| banks out of the way of crocodiles and other | | | | Zambezi |
| game is occasionally permitted at the guide's | | | | |
| discretion. | | | | -always have your camera ready |
| | | | |
| Siestas at lunch time are welcomed - river | | | | -definitely get out there and have some fun |