| A pre-departure and safety briefing is given by your | | | | is occasionally permitted at the guide's discretion. |
| guide the evening before your launch - usually at | | | | Siestas at lunch time are welcomed - river guides see |
| Kariba Breezes Hotel. Safety is the foremost concern | | | | it as a job perk and the habit is unlikely to be broken. |
| of the guide and operators. | | | | The usual routine is to find a safe spot under a large |
| Any safari activity should be considered potentially | | | | Tamarind tree, set up a cold lunch and find a |
| hazardous and whilst all reasonable efforts and | | | | comfortable spot for a bed roll and some light |
| precautions are taken by operators, the guides are | | | | reading. |
| rigourously trained, are qualified and experienced - | | | | Fishing tackle is a good idea for more active |
| their instructions on the day must be strictly adhered | | | | participants - be sure to request this specifically when |
| to. The briefing is often your first opportunity to | | | | making your reservation, alternatively bring a light rod |
| meet your safari companions - a good time to ask | | | | and a no.3 Mepps spinner (bacon pieces are |
| questions and bail out if in doubt. The first day starts | | | | considered a delicacy by the local Tiger Fish). Fishing |
| shortly after breakfast with a quick shopping stint in | | | | on the river is excellent, the river Tiger put up a |
| Nyamhunga or Mahombekombe to collect last minute | | | | better fight than on those on Lake Kariba. The day's |
| sun creams, beverages and personal snacks etc. | | | | catch, if any is prepared at night. |
| The launch onto the Zambezi River | | | | The pace of the afternoon's paddling session |
| The Kariba launch is just downstream of the dam | | | | depends largely upon whether or not a morning wind |
| wall not far from the now derelict Nyamasowa camp | | | | came up or not. Usually it's a leisurely paddle until an |
| - it's a 30 minute walk down to the river. | | | | hour or so before sunset. Zambezi Valley sunsets |
| Launches from Chirundu and Nyamepi follow a two | | | | compare with amongst the best in the world and |
| hour drive from Kariba (look out for TenKayTom, a | | | | that applies throughout the year whether it's smoke |
| large male leopard near the 10/12km pegs on the | | | | haze from bush fires in the winter months or crystal |
| Makuti road). | | | | air and cloudy backdrops in the summer. |
| Launches from Zambia follow after completing | | | | Meals and stuff... |
| customs and immigration formalities at the Kariba | | | | Meals are more than adequate and there are plenty |
| Siavonga or Chirundu border posts. | | | | of leftovers for the fish. Mealtimes always provide a |
| The launch itself is often a harried affair with porters | | | | good opportunity to put your bush cooking skills to |
| and guides trying to organise their lives, stow excess | | | | the test - and if you don't care to subject your |
| baggage/food/ice/drinks and generally get under | | | | companions to anything dodgy then you can just |
| way. | | | | clean up instead... |
| Underway at last... | | | | Breakfast consists of cereal, tinned fruit, bacon, eggs, |
| Before you know it, another safety briefing is | | | | sausages etc. (Fresh fruits are not permitted in Mana |
| complete, you've forgotten all your paddling | | | | Pools - they attract the attention of some of the |
| instructions and you're on the mighty Zambezi. | | | | larger raiders.) |
| Steering and paddling disputes generally break out | | | | Lunches are usually made up of cold meats and |
| immediately - the first pod of hippos has a | | | | salads. |
| remarkable focussing effect on the mind and order | | | | Suppers vary: spaghetti bolognaise, beef stew, roast |
| settles in pretty sharpishly. Any thoughts of urban | | | | chicken etc. with vegetables. |
| ritual and the civilized world are already long gone. | | | | Vegetarian and other dietary preferences are |
| The Zambezi is remarkable world of its own. The | | | | catered for but must be specified when making your |
| views from the river across thick riverine forest onto | | | | reservation. Complimentary wine is usually served |
| the escarpment are pure therapy. The birdlife | | | | with dinners. |
| demands attention even from people who have | | | | Other alcoholic and special softdrink preferences need |
| never give wild birds a second thought. Large game | | | | to be arranged in advance - alcohol should be |
| particularly buffalo, elephant and hippo receive | | | | consumed in strict moderation on safari. There is no |
| immediate and dedicated attention at the expense of | | | | shortage of cordials and fresh drinking water in the |
| the birds, scenery etc. | | | | canoes. The river water is considered safe to drink |
| The canoeing routine (?!) | | | | but the risk of a tummy bug jeopardising a trip isn't |
| The river routine establishes itself within a few hours | | | | worth it so use what's supplied or take your own. |
| and before long the first night stop is reached. Camp | | | | "Doug" and "Lucy" are standard ablution tools. Doug is |
| setups are done to a formula (kitchen set up with all | | | | a small spade, Lucy is a fold up toilet seat. (Doug has |
| equipment and utensils laid out strictly, shower unit | | | | a brother called "Wunderbar".) Shrubs, reeds and |
| up, tents and mosquito nets laid out) - almost military | | | | trees afford plenty of privacy - some of the views |
| precision in about 20 minutes. Sleeping arrangements | | | | into the mountains and across the river during |
| vary from two man dome tents to a simple | | | | moments of deep contemplation are spectacular. |
| mosquito net over paddle affair - double bed if | | | | Avoid undertaking your own "private safari" in order |
| necessary. For the more intrepid, the simple net is | | | | to maximise privacy. All tissue and toilet paper is |
| definitely the way to go. The stars shine brighter and | | | | burnt. The campsites are hygienic and show no sign |
| buffalo, elephant or hippo wanderers in the small | | | | of over use - operators police conditions and are |
| hours add spice. | | | | quick to raise complaints if any stopover site is left |
| The daily routine is usually an early paddling start | | | | untidy. |
| after sunrise to cover ground before the wind picks | | | | Some basic canoeing rules... |
| up by mid morning. This is followed by a full (English | | | | -never start a water fight downwind, |
| type) breakfast on a suitable stopover site. The river | | | | -always be prepared for a water fight when you're |
| flows at approximately 4 km/hour. Previous canoeing | | | | most relaxed, |
| experience isn't necessary - 90% of the steerage | | | | -always be very wary when the guide suggests a |
| comes from aft - newly weds shouldn't paddle in the | | | | social raft, |
| same canoe. The canoes are the Canadian standard. | | | | -always gang up against the guide, |
| The entire canoeing safari isn't strenuous (unfit torsos | | | | -always punish over-enthusiastic paddlers - drinking |
| will feel aches at night but ten minutes of paddling | | | | cups on a short lead make ideal "sea anchors", |
| the next morning clears any lactic acid build up). The | | | | -never openly celebrate a birthday on the river - |
| route is restricted to shallow waters out of the way | | | | elephant pats are aplenty on the Zambezi |
| of hippo. Swimming is not recommended in the | | | | -always have your camera ready |
| Zambezi - wallowing on large and very shallow sand | | | | -definitely get out there and have some fun |
| banks out of the way of crocodiles and other game | | | | |