| A pre-departure and safety briefing is | | | | of the way of crocodiles and other game |
| given by your guide the evening before | | | | is occasionally permitted at the guide's |
| your launch - usually at Kariba Breezes | | | | discretion. |
| Hotel. Safety is the foremost concern of | | | | Siestas at lunch time are welcomed - |
| the guide and operators. | | | | river guides see it as a job perk and |
| Any safari activity should be considered | | | | the habit is unlikely to be broken. The |
| potentially hazardous and whilst all | | | | usual routine is to find a safe spot |
| reasonable efforts and precautions are | | | | under a large Tamarind tree, set up a |
| taken by operators, the guides are | | | | cold lunch and find a comfortable spot |
| rigourously trained, are qualified and | | | | for a bed roll and some light reading. |
| experienced - their instructions on the | | | | Fishing tackle is a good idea for more |
| day must be strictly adhered to. The | | | | active participants - be sure to request |
| briefing is often your first opportunity | | | | this specifically when making your |
| to meet your safari companions - a good | | | | reservation, alternatively bring a light |
| time to ask questions and bail out if in | | | | rod and a no.3 Mepps spinner (bacon |
| doubt. The first day starts shortly | | | | pieces are considered a delicacy by the |
| after breakfast with a quick shopping | | | | local Tiger Fish). Fishing on the river |
| stint in Nyamhunga or Mahombekombe to | | | | is excellent, the river Tiger put up a |
| collect last minute sun creams, | | | | better fight than on those on Lake |
| beverages and personal snacks etc. | | | | Kariba. The day's catch, if any is |
| The launch onto the Zambezi River | | | | prepared at night. |
| The Kariba launch is just downstream of | | | | The pace of the afternoon's paddling |
| the dam wall not far from the now | | | | session depends largely upon whether or |
| derelict Nyamasowa camp - it's a 30 | | | | not a morning wind came up or not. |
| minute walk down to the river. | | | | Usually it's a leisurely paddle until an |
| Launches from Chirundu and Nyamepi | | | | hour or so before sunset. Zambezi Valley |
| follow a two hour drive from Kariba | | | | sunsets compare with amongst the best in |
| (look out for TenKayTom, a large male | | | | the world and that applies throughout |
| leopard near the 10/12km pegs on the | | | | the year whether it's smoke haze from |
| Makuti road). | | | | bush fires in the winter months or |
| Launches from Zambia follow after | | | | crystal air and cloudy backdrops in the |
| completing customs and immigration | | | | summer. |
| formalities at the Kariba/Siavonga or | | | | Meals and stuff... |
| Chirundu border posts. | | | | Meals are more than adequate and there |
| The launch itself is often a harried | | | | are plenty of leftovers for the fish. |
| affair with porters and guides trying to | | | | Mealtimes always provide a good |
| organise their lives, stow excess | | | | opportunity to put your bush cooking |
| baggage/food/ice/drinks and generally | | | | skills to the test - and if you don't |
| get under way. | | | | care to subject your companions to |
| Underway at last... | | | | anything dodgy then you can just clean |
| Before you know it, another safety | | | | up instead... |
| briefing is complete, you've forgotten | | | | Breakfast consists of cereal, tinned |
| all your paddling instructions and | | | | fruit, bacon, eggs, sausages etc. (Fresh |
| you're on the mighty Zambezi. Steering | | | | fruits are not permitted in Mana Pools - |
| and paddling disputes generally break | | | | they attract the attention of some of |
| out immediately - the first pod of | | | | the larger raiders.) |
| hippos has a remarkable focussing effect | | | | Lunches are usually made up of cold |
| on the mind and order settles in pretty | | | | meats and salads. |
| sharpishly. Any thoughts of urban ritual | | | | Suppers vary: spaghetti bolognaise, beef |
| and the civilized world are already long | | | | stew, roast chicken etc. with |
| gone. | | | | vegetables. |
| The Zambezi is remarkable world of its | | | | Vegetarian and other dietary preferences |
| own. The views from the river across | | | | are catered for but must be specified |
| thick riverine forest onto the | | | | when making your reservation. |
| escarpment are pure therapy. The | | | | Complimentary wine is usually served |
| birdlife demands attention even from | | | | with dinners. |
| people who have never give wild birds a | | | | Other alcoholic and special softdrink |
| second thought. Large game particularly | | | | preferences need to be arranged in |
| buffalo, elephant and hippo receive | | | | advance - alcohol should be consumed in |
| immediate and dedicated attention at the | | | | strict moderation on safari. There is no |
| expense of the birds, scenery etc. | | | | shortage of cordials and fresh drinking |
| The canoeing routine (?!) | | | | water in the canoes. The river water is |
| The river routine establishes itself | | | | considered safe to drink but the risk of |
| within a few hours and before long the | | | | a tummy bug jeopardising a trip isn't |
| first night stop is reached. Camp setups | | | | worth it so use what's supplied or take |
| are done to a formula (kitchen set up | | | | your own. |
| with all equipment and utensils laid out | | | | "Doug" and "Lucy" are standard ablution |
| strictly, shower unit up, tents and | | | | tools. Doug is a small spade, Lucy is a |
| mosquito nets laid out) - almost | | | | fold up toilet seat. (Doug has a brother |
| military precision in about 20 minutes. | | | | called "Wunderbar".) Shrubs, reeds and |
| Sleeping arrangements vary from two man | | | | trees afford plenty of privacy - some of |
| dome tents to a simple mosquito net over | | | | the views into the mountains and across |
| paddle affair - double bed if necessary. | | | | the river during moments of deep |
| For the more intrepid, the simple net is | | | | contemplation are spectacular. Avoid |
| definitely the way to go. The stars | | | | undertaking your own "private safari" in |
| shine brighter and buffalo, elephant or | | | | order to maximise privacy. All tissue |
| hippo wanderers in the small hours add | | | | and toilet paper is burnt. The campsites |
| spice. | | | | are hygienic and show no sign of over |
| The daily routine is usually an early | | | | use - operators police conditions and |
| paddling start after sunrise to cover | | | | are quick to raise complaints if any |
| ground before the wind picks up by mid | | | | stopover site is left untidy. |
| morning. This is followed by a full | | | | Some basic canoeing rules... |
| (English type) breakfast on a suitable | | | | -never start a water fight downwind, |
| stopover site. The river flows at | | | | -always be prepared for a water fight |
| approximately 4 km/hour. Previous | | | | when you're most relaxed, |
| canoeing experience isn't necessary - | | | | -always be very wary when the guide |
| 90% of the steerage comes from aft - | | | | suggests a social raft, |
| newly weds shouldn't paddle in the same | | | | -always gang up against the guide, |
| canoe. The canoes are the Canadian | | | | -always punish over-enthusiastic |
| standard. The entire canoeing safari | | | | paddlers - drinking cups on a short lead |
| isn't strenuous (unfit torsos will feel | | | | make ideal "sea anchors", |
| aches at night but ten minutes of | | | | -never openly celebrate a birthday on |
| paddling the next morning clears any | | | | the river - elephant pats are aplenty on |
| lactic acid build up). The route is | | | | the Zambezi |
| restricted to shallow waters out of the | | | | -always have your camera ready |
| way of hippo. Swimming is not | | | | -definitely get out there and have some |
| recommended in the Zambezi - wallowing | | | | fun |
| on large and very shallow sand banks out | | | | |