| Zambia and Zimbabwe | | | | out of my tent, see a hyena standing just 30 metres |
| I have the choice of three border posts between | | | | away. Am I glad to be on top of the 4x4, hired in |
| Zambia and Zimbabwe: Chirundu, Siavonga (Kariba) | | | | South Africa! The next day I visit some waterholes |
| and Livingstone (Victoria Falls). I choose to cross the | | | | and am lucky enough to see a massive elephant |
| border at Livingstone in my cross border car rental, | | | | having a shower. I don't see any of the cat family |
| so I can judge for myself whether Victoria Falls are | | | | but do get to see lots of antelope and, curiously, |
| better viewed from the Zambian or the Zimbabwean | | | | thousands of butterflies. |
| side. | | | | I had been planning to drive from Hwange to Kariba, |
| Mazabuku | | | | but fellow travellers I meet tell me that the dirt road |
| As I head south out of Lusaka on the main T2, | | | | is very poor condition and that it's best to travel |
| about 5 km outside the city, I stop at a supermarket | | | | there on the Zambian side. So, I return to Victoria |
| to refuel. A little while later, after going through the | | | | Falls, where I treat myself to a night in a luxury hotel. |
| town of Kafue, I cross over the Kafue Gorge bridge | | | | I am going to have a long day tomorrow. I leave as |
| and keep a look out for the turning to Livingstone, | | | | dawn is breaking and cross over into Zambia as soon |
| which is not that clearly signposted. I spot it and turn | | | | as the border post opens up. It takes me over six |
| left. Less than an hour later, I find myself driving | | | | hours driving along a potholed tar road to reach |
| through fields of sugarcane, as I approach Mazabuku. | | | | Kariba. The next morning, I cross over into |
| The town is tree-lined and seems well developed | | | | Zimbabwe again through the Chirundu one-stop |
| with plenty of shops and garages and even some | | | | border post, one of Southern Africa's busiest inland |
| eateries. I stop briefly to buy some supplies and then | | | | border crossings. It takes a while, as I am in the |
| continue my journey south along a reasonably good | | | | same queue as a whole lot of truckers waiting to |
| tar road. A couple of hours later I arrive in Choma | | | | navigate the two countries' cross-border immigration |
| and pop into the Museum, which has some | | | | and customs. Eventually I am through and drive up |
| fascinating displays on Tonga culture and a craft | | | | the hill past the Mana Pools entrance gate to |
| centre. Then, I head north to the Nkanga River | | | | Marongara, Mana Pools' headquarters where I get my |
| Conservation area, where I am going to be spending | | | | permits. |
| the night at one of the campsites. The area is a | | | | Mana Pools |
| bird-watchers paradise with over 400 different | | | | Then I drive back down the hill through the park |
| species of birdlife - I fall asleep to the soft hoot of | | | | gates and am in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe's second |
| owls in the trees outside. | | | | World Heritage Site, on the southern bank of the |
| Livingstone | | | | Zambezi River. It takes me two hours to get to the |
| The next morning, after a couple of hours' drive, I | | | | campsite. After settling in, I go for an unguided walk |
| arrive in Livingstone, after passing through the towns | | | | along the old river terraces and see antelope and |
| of Kalomo and Zimba. The main street of the town is | | | | elephants in the distance - it's like walking in a |
| lined with Victorian tin-roofed houses with wooden | | | | woodland park. At Mana Pools there are no fences to |
| verandas that take me back in time. On the road to | | | | separate humans and animals, just the sounds of the |
| Victoria Falls, I stop at a thatched-covered gas | | | | wilderness all around: monkeys calling to each other, |
| station to fill up and check oil and water, before | | | | hippos grunting and elephants trumpeting. I feel a |
| crossing into Zimbabwe. I drive over what must be | | | | sense of tranquility and peace that is only highlighted |
| one of the most spectacular border crossings in the | | | | by the surreal light filtering through the trees. After |
| world: the 111 meter bridge viaduct that spans the | | | | two days of relaxation and immersion in nature, I |
| Zambezi. | | | | leave for Lake Kariba, just 100 km away. |
| Victoria Falls | | | | Lake Kariba |
| As water thunders to my left, I understand why the | | | | Lake Kariba is a manmade lake that was constructed |
| Kokolo tribe called Victoria Falls "Mosi-oa-Tunya" (the | | | | in the 1950s when the Kariba Dam was built along the |
| smoke that thunders). A World Heritage Site, the | | | | Zambezi River. The Tonga people, who were |
| Victoria Falls are one of the seven natural wonders | | | | displaced by the Dam, believe that the Nyaminyami |
| of the world and twice as high and one and a half | | | | god will take revenge on man's disruption of nature. |
| times as wide as the Niagara Falls. People are bungee | | | | But I see no sign of that - just a lake that is teeming |
| jumping from the middle of the bridge (crazy!). Vic | | | | with crocodiles and hippos. It is definitely not the |
| Falls is known as the adrenalin capital with an amazing | | | | place for a swim but wonderful for viewing wildlife! |
| choice of crazy adventure sports to try out, from | | | | Before booking in at my accommodation, I take a |
| microlighting to gorge swinging. I prefer my | | | | 2-hour drive around the lake and see a multitude of |
| adventures from behind the wheel of my 4x4 hire! | | | | wildlife: elephants, baboons, zebra, waterbuck, impala |
| When I arrive on the Zimbawean side, I find the | | | | and even a tortoise. That night I sleep on board a |
| view to be even more spectacular. I can see three | | | | houseboat from where I am able to experience a |
| times more of the Victoria falls from this side than | | | | different view of the wildlife, watching as crocodiles |
| from Zambia. Unfortunately I don't have time to walk | | | | slip from the banks into the river, hippos wallow in |
| along some of the walkways and get soaked with | | | | the mud and fish eagles perch on half-submerged |
| spray (like other tourists I see). I need to reach | | | | tree trunks. |
| Hwange National Park before nightfall. | | | | The next morning I leave Kariba for Mozambique. I |
| Hwange National Park | | | | had originally intended crossing from Zimbabwe into |
| Travelling along a tarred road, the countryside is | | | | Mozambique at the Forbees-Machipanda border post |
| green and beautiful. About two hours after leaving | | | | just outside Mutare, but because of fuel shortages, |
| Victoria Falls, I arrive in Hwange, the largest National | | | | prefer not to travel further than is necessary in |
| Park in Zimbabwe, covering over 14 000 square | | | | Zimbabwe. I set off from Kariba to Makuti, where I |
| kilometers. Driving through the Park I am grateful for | | | | turn left towards Chirundu and then right onto the |
| my 4x4: the potholes on some of the roads seem to | | | | road to Kanyemba. The road is not great but my |
| have potholes of their own! I arrive at a camp and | | | | 4x4 hire is able to cope with the potholes and a |
| after eating around the fire, climb into my roof tent | | | | couple of hours later I reach the border crossing of |
| to sleep. A while later, I hear a noise and, peeking | | | | Kanyemba. |