| Have you ever wanted to camp in the bush and | | | | soothing rhythm -- something that western societies |
| photograph African wildlife in a vast green and lush | | | | seem to have lost. Try to fall into this rhythm, to |
| landscape of water teaming with all kinds of animals? | | | | become for a short while totally in tune with nature |
| Then take a canoe safari in the Okavango Delta. | | | | and its daily ebbs and flows." |
| Recently, a small group of us went on a canoeing | | | | The next day we head out with our guides in the |
| safari to photograph wildlife in the Moremi Wildlife | | | | mokoros, which are hand hewn wooden canoes and |
| Reserve, where some of the greatest variety of | | | | we drift slowly through the clear delta waters. These |
| wildlife and best-protected delta environments in | | | | wetlands are filled with reed, papyrus and water lilies |
| Africa are located. Often described as "the river | | | | as well as acacia, leadwood and sausage trees, which |
| which never finds the sea," the 1300 km long | | | | are used to carve out the mokoros. The shallow |
| Okavango River forms a massive delta, in northwest | | | | dugout canoes appear precarious, but are amazingly |
| Botswana, in Southern Africa. The river eventually | | | | stable and ideally suited to being propelled by a pole |
| disappears into a labyrinth of shallow channels, | | | | through the shallow waters. |
| lagoons and islands, forming lush, swampy wetlands | | | | Wildebeest and red leechwe keep their eye on our |
| that would cover an area the size of Massachusetts. | | | | slow progress through the marsh grasses and an |
| Having spent the previous two weeks camping in the | | | | Africa fish eagle swoops down from its lofty perch |
| deserts of Namibia, my partners and I felt that we | | | | to scan the waters for a meal. A few white egrets |
| had found an oasis when we first saw the dazzling | | | | and a great blue heron prowl the reeds along the |
| green vegetation and the brilliant clear waters of the | | | | shore as I dip my cup into the fast flowing channel |
| delta. | | | | for a sip of the cool clear waters. Victor assured us |
| On the evening we arrived at our Okavango base | | | | that the bilharzia-free waters were safe to drink. The |
| camp, we were greeted by a South African named | | | | waters have been naturally filtered through miles of |
| Victor. He was a mirror of this wild world, with a | | | | grasses and reeds and tested many times for |
| gentle easiness in his movements that seemed to | | | | bacteria content. He hadn't heard of anyone ever |
| reflect the pace of life around us and red-clay skin | | | | getting ill from drinking the water. |
| that told of much time spent under the African sun. | | | | As the sun grows hot, our guides edge the mokoros |
| Part of his job was to alert all visitors going out on | | | | onto the grassy bank. |
| the Mokoro Trail of the dangerous perils we could | | | | "You swim now," Gobolya announces. |
| encounter. | | | | "Right here?" We ask. |
| "There are any number of potentially fatal situations | | | | "Yes, here. It's OK." |
| you might find yourself in," he said, his speech thick | | | | My sweaty companions and I survey the water, |
| with an Afrikaans accent. "You must be vigilant at all | | | | each of us wondering who would be the first one in. |
| times. If elephants come into the camp tonight, which | | | | Though it looked tempting, I recalled the guidebook |
| they will, don't startle them. Leopards too --we just | | | | warnings we had read back at base camp: "Swim |
| saw one here last night. If you meet one on the trail, | | | | only where your guide recommends. Be the last one |
| just stand still they will get confused and go away. | | | | in and the first one out. If a croc gets you, go for |
| Never, ever run -- from any cat. If you run, consider | | | | the eyes with your thumbs. And never go anywhere |
| it your last run!" | | | | near a hippo. Good luck." African humor at its best. |
| We listened attentively as he continued with the | | | | With no crocs in sight, we took our chances and |
| whole list, which included black mambas, puff adders, | | | | jumped in. After not having had a shower for two |
| hyenas, crocodiles and hippos, the most dangerous | | | | days, the water had a wonderful cleansing effect on |
| animal in all of Africa. | | | | us. And the thrill of swimming where danger lurked |
| "There is so much life here. Don't be afraid. Enjoy | | | | gave us another tale for fireside reminiscences. |
| everything that this place has to offer -- there is so | | | | This is a magical place, full of wonderful images of |
| much to see and appreciate here. One woman came | | | | the enchanted waters of glistening blues and |
| here and everyday she'd go out looking for lion and | | | | shimmering greens and mystical sounds of life drifting |
| everyday she came back disappointed when she | | | | through the marsh grasses and the scent of moist |
| didn't see any. She noticed nothing else. " He shook | | | | earth, wild animals and distant rain. |
| his head. "And she left here never seeing a lion -- | | | | Go explore the Okavango with all of your senses and |
| never seeing anything." | | | | you'll have the experience of a lifetime, as well as |
| "The way of life here is slow, but it has a very | | | | innumerable photos as your prize. |