Down and Dirty in Africa - Cairo to Cape Town Part 3

Malawi is most famous for its Lake, described moreColonial was entertaining the German Colonial (the
like a sea; Lake Malawi covers over 1/3rd of theBrits occupied Zambia and the Germans Namibia - of
country. The clear clean water is rather inviting as iscourse it was Rhodesia and German South Western
the tasty fish!Africa in those days) when the announcement was
We spent a few days on the shores of Lake Malawi,made that the war had started. The English Colonial
world renowned for the rare and unique fresh waterturned to the German Colonial and rather politely told
fish (some of which prehistoric) living in the Lake. Wehim that he may finish his tea and scones but "to let
stayed at a tiny eco-lodge built on a cliff with its ownyou know you are now my prisoner".
private sandy beach; the views spectacular, roomsThe Caprivi strip is a perfect place to nip back into
very comfortable and hospitality unbeatable. WeBotswana to explore the Northern part of the
arrived at about the same time the rain clouds didOkavango Delta. The Delta is alive with over 300 bird
creating a mad panic to get our cooking shelter up;species and numerous mammals and of course
the rain beat us in the race and some of us werereptiles. Huge crocs roam the water ways, hippos
rather soaked - at least the air was warm and to bewallow in the warm water while King Fishers swoop
honest the free shower was welcomed. Luckily ourfrom high above to feast on the catch of the day. A
charcoal BBQ fire survived long enough for me torelaxing couple of days on the Kubu Queen
BBQ our pork chops for dinner; the rain did not let uphouseboat with Greg the Fisherman were an ideal
and several hours later was still bucketing down. Theway to explore the area.
first real rain we have experienced in 3 months ofAs we drove through the northern part of Namibia
traveling .......we were treated to a remarkable sight. A dozen or
Up high in the highlands of Malawi is a little settlementso African Wild Dog was sitting on the main highway!
called Livingstonia. The name itself indicates a tributeWild Dog is rare to see at the best of times, to see
to the great explorer himself; David Livingstone.a pack so close is not a common occurrence. It was
David Livingstone spent very little time in Malawi itselfnot until later that we discovered one was injured
although he did make several trips across the landand the rest of the pack was waiting for her to pick
preaching anti-slavery and messages from the Bible.herself up and move to safety.
Some decided to travel up the steep gravel road inWe continued our journey toward Etosha stopping
the wet while others decided hiring a catamaran wasenroute to see the World's biggest Meteorite. Etosha,
a better idea.although rather wet, didn't disappoint. Alive with
Crossing into Zambia was a very easy processwildlife in the northern part coupled with a lot of
indicating we were closer to southern Africa andmuddy tracks gave the vehicles a bit of a workout
more western systems in place. South Luangwaand a temporary new white paint job!
National Park is Zambia's number 2 tourist attraction;From Etosha we made a nightstop at a local farm
second only to the mighty Victoria Falls however theand cheetah reserve. In Namibia cheetahs are
road to access the park is the worst road wedeemed a pest and farmers have the right to shoot
traveled on through Southern Africa. Large holes,them. An increasing number of local farms have
heavy corrugations, narrow boggy strips, sharp rocksestablished reserves for cheetahs. As well as
and deep ravines cut through heavy tropical rain forprotecting it gives a unique chance to get very close
approximately 40kms. We had been told the roadand pat "domesticated" cheetahs. We stopped at
was impassable but you never know unless you try;one started by a mate of ours Mario; who has 3
the plan was simple - see how we go ..........domesticated cheetahs and over 40 wild ones living in
We reached the turn-off to South Luangwa and thedesignated areas on the farm. The wild cheetahs
road slowly deteriorated, although it had been visiblycome from surrounding farms, the farmers call the
very wet and boggy in parts; the road had driedguys at the Cheetah Farm to tell them a cheetah is
enough to get through without too many hiccups.taking livestock, the boys then trap the cheetah and
We were 5kms from South Luangwa when the funrelocate to the farm. We were greeted upon arrival
really started; 800m of deep bog holes and no wayby a young giraffe, found abandoned a few weeks
around. We weaved our way around the brim of thebefore and rescued by the Cheetah Farm she has
holes until we had no choice but to go through -decided to hang around for a while!
water seeping over the bonnet with the left handNamibia is traditionally the land of desert and rocky
side falling into deeper holes we slowly made ouroutcrops. However an unusually wetter than normal
way through without incident - good old Land Rovers!wet season transformed Namibia from dry desert to
South Luangwa was definitely worth the trip; anlush green fields with bare mountains creating a
abundance of wildlife on the shores of Luangwa Riverdramatic backdrop. We had to change our planned
in northern Zambia; we camped on the shores of theroute slightly as we had heard from locals several
river; hippos grunted day and night (with oneroads had been cut off due to rivers flooding
wandering through the campsite in the middle of thedeeming them impassable.
day), and troops of baboons and vervet monkeysAfter over 3 months of driving on everything from
played on the tents. We tried our first real gameperfect tar roads, dirt tracks, sand dunes and narrow
meat - hippo steaks -after a bit of a pounding andmountain passes we were all up for a bit of mud,
flash frying. Surprisingly, they were pretty tasty; a bitriver crossings and possibly a bit of digging. Most of
like veal .......the roads in Namibia are wide dirt roads with a few
After a bit of adventure leaving South Luangwa wemade out of salt. The exceptional rains had created
were on our way to Victoria Falls, or as the localschaos all over the country, road closures, flash
know it as Mosi-oa-Tunya (smoke that thunders). Inflooding and long deep muddy stretches.
1855 David Livingstone sat awestruck by this amazingDespite the sporadic rains we continued on track and
find and in his journal wrote "on sights as beautiful asspent time on the Skeleton Coast, a desolate stretch
this, angels in their flight must have gazed"; a perfectof nothing but sand, wind and treacherous seas,
way to describe one of the seven natural wondershome to the largest Cape Fur seal colony in the
of the World. Her sheer power throws spray highWorld. A few days exploring the German colonial
into the air visible for miles. Victoria Falls is near thetown, Swakopmund, relaxing and catching up on
town of Livingstone, it is rare to visit a town in Africadomestic duties. Then made the journey to
which holds onto and is proud of its colonial history.Namib-Naukluft National Park to explore the desert,
Only a few kilometers from Zimbabwe, Livingstonedune 45 and Sousselvei oasis and enjoyed some
has become the hub for selling curios (souvenirs)serious 4x4ing in the process; by the time we made
from Zimbabwe. Local Zimbabweans cross the borderit to Luderitz and the old "gold rush" ghost town of
to earn hard currency, buy basic food products andKolmanskop the heavens had cleared and with the
clothing before crossing the border daily. The hottestdays hot and sun beating down on us it was the first
souvenirs on sale were Zimbabwean dollars and intime we really felt like we were in Namibia.
particular the latest note, 10 Trillion dollars. To put thisThe road to Fish River Canyon was long and dusty -
into perspective you need 2 10 Trillion dollar notes toour final destination in Namibia. Fish River Canyon is
buy a loaf of bread (at the time we bought thesethe Grand Canyon to Africa - a masterpiece of art
notes - no idea what it is worth now). It is tragic tofrom Mother Nature; rocks carved over millions of
see how the jewel of Africa over 10 years hasyears to produce a Canyon over 170kms long and up
disintegrated into a land of nothing. The best thingto 27kms wide in certain points. The full scale of its
tourists can do is to buy goods from the local sellers,expanse can only really be appreciated by the air,
no matter how small the item or how cheap everyalthough our vantage point at the top of the Canyon
cent helps.certainly showed her in her true glamour. On one of
Just before leaving Livingstone we read an article in aour earlier expeditions one group member (who
travel magazine about the Kazangula ferry - the ferrynormally drives on the other side of the road) once
that takes us across the Zambezi River from Zambiastated "Gosh; must have taken ages to build that"
into Botswana - the article talked about how chaoticEveryone headed off in different directions along the
and difficult the crossing was. With everyonerim looking for the best spots for the ideal photo.
prepared for long delays and queues (strictOur final country and destination - South Africa. The
instructions to keep the vehicles bumper to bumper)border crossing was very easy although we did lose
we arrived at the border/ferry port. Much to ourour fruit at a fruit fly inspection point. The minute we
disappointment the crossing was far from chaotic andcrossed into South Africa I felt like I was back in
the queues non existent; we merely cruised acrossAustralia. The first 400kms strongly resembles the
into Botswana.Flinders Rangers - rocky outcrops, rolling hills and salt
Arriving into Kasane at the same time as a hugebush as far as the eye can see. If it wasn't for the
thunder storm; our tents were up just before theroad signs in Afrikaans and warnings for springbok
heavens opened. The heavy down pour lasted aboutinstead of kangaroos one would truly believe they
40 minutes before the clouds cleared and the sunwere in South Australia. We made excellent time on
shone once again. The afternoon was spent on athe superb roads (wide, straight and no pot holes!)
game viewing boat cruising up the Chobe River. Muchwe decided to push on a bit and spend our final night
to our delight there were hundreds of elephantsbefore Cape Town in Stellenbosch - the Capital of
playing in the shallows with massive hippo pods closeWine Lands.
by, as crocodiles happily sunned themselves on theWe set off down the N1 highway toward Cape
shores.Town our final destination. The air was filled with a
The following morning we headed out on a gamemixture of excitement of making the 18,000 kms
drive though Chobe National Park; with the exceptionfrom Aqaba, Jordan and sadness in the knowledge
of a young bull elephant only a few feet away fromwe were about to depart for our homelands. The
the vehicle the game was rather mellow. Botswanaclouds in the sky nicely represented our feelings. We
was experiencing an exceptional wet season hencearrived in Cape Town at our hotel tired but with a
the grass was high making game viewing not ideal.sense of satisfaction and achievement - we did it!
Nonetheless the scenery and birdlife made theWe shared a final evening meal, chatted about the
morning rather enjoyable.good times, remembering the quirky events along the
After the morning at Chobe we continued into theway and the characters we met.
Northern part of Namibia or better known as theOur final day was spent back in the Wine Lands,
Caprivi Strip. This part of Namibia has been the scenetasting wines and enjoying lunch at a local winery, the
of many conflicts over the years and up until only 8evening was topped off at the Cape Town Botanical
years ago was deemed unsafe to travel through.gardens with a glass of wine in-hand listening to a live
With the fighting over and an excellent infrastructureclassical orchestra.
making travel very easy we decided to take this10 adventurers, 5 landies, 4 months, 18,500kms, 12
route. The Caprivi Strip is also where the firstcountries crossed the African continent from top to
prisoner of war was taken in WW1 - the Englishtail ...... Cairo to Cape - The Long Way Down.