| Pate Island of Lamu in Kenya | | | | huge crenellated fort ' which sits dramatically on the |
| Pate, an engaging mangrove island northeast of Lamu | | | | waterfront. Even third grand structure couldn't halt |
| and Manda is one of those rare places where the | | | | Siyu's demise in 1847, when it was occupied by the |
| cultural isolation equals the geographical seclusion, | | | | sultan of Zanzibar troops. The fort has been well |
| preserving an uncomplicated traditional lifestyle as | | | | restored and there are some Swahili relics inside. |
| much as by necessity as by choice. | | | | South of Siyu is the intruding village of Shanga. |
| The only foreigners who come to this island are | | | | Apparently settled by is a corruption of China).You'll |
| dhow trippers and occasional archeologist, so you can | | | | need local help to find it. |
| expect to be a novelty and to be treated with | | | | Getting to Siyu Island in Lamu |
| friendly curiosity, especially by the local children. The | | | | The boat from Mtangawanda to Faza stops at the |
| local mosquitoes also appreciate fresh meat so bring | | | | mouth of the mangrove-lined channel leading up to |
| insect repellent. | | | | Siyu, where some canoes transfer passengers to the |
| There are a number of historical sites on Pate Island | | | | village. From Lamu the fare is Kshs100. this service |
| including pate town, Siyu, Mtangwanda and Faza. All | | | | isn't always available, so you may have to walk from |
| are still inhabited by fishers and mangrove-pole | | | | Pate or Faza. |
| cuttersbut very little effort has been put to | | | | From Pate it's about 8km to Siyu along a dirt track |
| preserving or clearing the remains of these once | | | | through the bush. The first part is tricky since certain |
| powerful Swahili city states. | | | | turn-offs are easy to miss, so it is a good idea to |
| Accommodation and food on the island are easy to | | | | take a guide with you as fare as tidal inlet (the boat |
| arrange with local families, and there are one or two | | | | captain can help to arrange this). From there on its |
| simple restaurants offering basic meals and tea. Pate | | | | easy, as the path bears left and then continue |
| town is a little more than a crumbling old settlement, | | | | straight through to Siyu. |
| but the Nabahani Ruins just outside town, are | | | | Faza Island of Lamu in Kenya |
| interesting, although they have never been seriously | | | | The biggest settlement on Pate island, Faza has a |
| excavated or cleared. | | | | chequered history, being almost totally destroyed by |
| Getting to Pate Vacation Island in Kenya | | | | pate in the 13th century and then again by the |
| A motor launch leaves Lamu more or less daily for | | | | Portuguese in 1586. It was subsequently |
| Mtangawanda (kshs50, about two hours), from which | | | | re-established and switched its allegiances to the |
| it's about an hours walk to Pate town along a narrow | | | | Portuguese during there attempts to subdue as an |
| footpath through thick bush and across tidal flats. | | | | administrative centre is breathing some life back in to |
| Boats continue to Faza (about another two hours) | | | | the place. |
| and Kizingitini (kshs150, another one hour), also | | | | The modern town is quite extensive and includes a |
| stopping at the mouth of the channel to Siyu, where | | | | post office, Telephone exchange, a simple restaurant, |
| small boats transfer passengers to shore. Boats leave | | | | several general stores and two guesthouses. The |
| from the main jerry in Lamu town; times depend on | | | | only historical relic is the ruined Kunjanja Mosque on |
| the tides, but it can be quite tricky finding out where | | | | the creek next to the district headquarters. |
| they go, as Swahili time is commonly used and every | | | | Among the rubble are a beautifully carved Mihrab and |
| one you ask will tell you something different. | | | | some fine Arabic inscriptions. Outside town is the |
| Coming back from Pate, ask locally to make sure the | | | | tomb of Amir Hamad, commander of the sultan of |
| boat will be calling at Mtangawanda on the return trip. | | | | Zanzibar's forces, who was killed here in 1844 while |
| If not, you may have to wait an extra day. | | | | campaigning against Siyu and Pate. |
| Siyu Island Lamu in Kenya | | | | Sleeping and Eating in Faza |
| Founded in the 15th century, Siyu was once famous | | | | The two guest house, Lamu House and Shela House, |
| as a center of Islamic scholarship and crafts, in its | | | | are essential family residences, but they can provide |
| heyday (between the 17th and 19th centuries) It | | | | meals and a bedroom if you need somewhere to |
| boasted some 30 000 inhabitants and was the largest | | | | stay. The price is negotiable (expect to pay around |
| settlement on the island. Today, however, less than | | | | Kshs 200 per person) and families are very friendly. |
| 4000 people live here and there are few signs of its | | | | A simple restaurant in the of town offers bean |
| previous cultural and religious influence. | | | | stews, tea and mandazi (a semi-sweet flat donut) for |
| The modern village displays little of Siyu's former | | | | just a fistful of shillings, and is a popular meeting place |
| glory , consisting of simple mud walled and makuti | | | | for the local men folk. |
| roofed houses, what does remain is the ruin of a | | | | |