| While Mombasa's Old town doesn't quite have the | | | | city's key administrative offices, including the customs |
| medieval charm of Lamu or Zanzibar, it's still an | | | | office, the Dhow Registrar's office, the treasury on |
| interesting area to wander around. The houses here | | | | Thika St and the Italian consulate. |
| are characteristic of coastal East African architecture, | | | | As you head northwest you'll also the scent |
| with ornately carved doors and window frames and | | | | emporium, founded in 1850 and still trading today, and |
| fretwork balconies, designed to protect the modesty | | | | the rather less refined odours of the new fish |
| of the female inhabitants. | | | | market. An annex of the still-operational original |
| Sadly, many of these have been destroyed; there is | | | | market further north. |
| now a preservation order on the Remaining doors | | | | Uphill next to the market is the Bohra Mosque, a |
| and balconies, so further losses should hopefully be | | | | prominent modern structure with a tall minaret, built |
| prevented. The Mombasa Old town conservation | | | | on the site of a previous mosque. Turn left down the |
| Society is encouraging the renovation of many | | | | winding streets here you reach Ndia Kuu Rd, where |
| dilapidated buildings. | | | | you'll see the former public library in front of you, the |
| From the outside there's little evidence what any of | | | | first of its kind in Kenya. Heading north, a right turn |
| these buildings were once used for. To flesh out their | | | | takes you to the Leven by the water front, site of |
| history, it's worth picking a copy of the booklet 'the | | | | the former British colonial administration. |
| old town of Mombasa; A historic guide (Kshs 200) | | | | Returning to Ndia Kuu rd, turn left past the Ithna |
| from the tourist office or the Fort Jesus ticket | | | | Asheri Mosque and head down Kitui Rd into an area |
| office. This excellent guide features old photos, a | | | | known as Kitovuni. Just off this street is the pillar |
| good map and a building by building account of the | | | | mosque, a three storey building with unusual wooden |
| various structures-as well as a description of the | | | | pillars. At the end of the street you'll find Piggot |
| unusual trolley service that used to run through the | | | | Place, another colonial square. The building on the |
| city. | | | | west side is Glen's Building, which bears little |
| Early morning or late afternoon is the best time to | | | | resemblance to its original design and is chiefly noted |
| walk around as there's more activity, although most | | | | for being named after a dog! |
| houses are residential these days and the streets are | | | | From here, mosque fans can detour down |
| rather quiet, except for the honking of horns as the | | | | Wachangamwe St to catch the colourful, modern |
| cars edge their way round blind corners. This tour can | | | | Memon Mosque and the more traditional Badala and |
| take anything from 30 minutes up to 1 ½ | | | | Badri mosques, before heading back down Old Kilindini |
| hours, depending on how many stops you make | | | | Rd past the 16th century Basheikh Mosque to rejoin |
| along the way. | | | | Ndia Kuu Rd. |
| We start our walk at Fort Jesus, the obvious | | | | Once you are on this straight home stretch, the final |
| gateway famous landmark for the Old Town. When | | | | stages of your route can be as direct or as |
| you have had your fill of the ramparts and relics, | | | | tangential as you wish-diverting into Side Street to |
| head past the colonial Mombasa Club onto Sir Mbarak | | | | see the real life of the Old town is highly |
| Hinawy Rd, once the main access road to the port | | | | recommended, and it hard to get truly lost. The |
| and now a lively thoroughfare punctuated with shops | | | | winding alleyways ways linking the Old town to Digo |
| and football graffiti. | | | | road are wonderfully lively, with market traders selling |
| On the left, Ani's Arcade is a three storey building | | | | everything from Kangas (printed wraps worn by |
| that dates back to 1900, when it was occupied by a | | | | women) and mobile phones accessories to baobab |
| British Shipping agency. Further along, Dalal House was | | | | seeds and fried taro roots. |
| once the National Bank of South Africa; the pleasant | | | | If you do stick to Ndia Kuu Rd, there are a lot of |
| orange façade was restored in 2000.Another | | | | nicely restored traditional buildings, most now |
| former financial institution, the Standard Bank, is just | | | | occupied by souvenir shops. Heading south, you'll pass |
| along from here, next to the Old town conservation | | | | Hansing & co the former German import/export |
| office. | | | | office; the criterion, once a well known hotel; an |
| On the other side of the street you'll see the minaret | | | | Indian-style house known as the balcony house, for |
| of the 16th century Mandhry Mosque, one of the | | | | obvious reasons; Edward St rose, the former |
| oldest still in use in Mombasa. The decorative fresh | | | | chemist, which retains its original engraved glass |
| water well for worshipper's ablutions is on the other | | | | panel; and Ali's Curio Market, one of the better |
| side of the conservation office. | | | | preserved balcony houses and formerly Mombasa's |
| Turn the corner at the end of the street and you'll | | | | police headquarter. Pass the Muslims cemetery and |
| enter Government Square, the largest open space in | | | | you are back at fort Jesus, hopefully refreshed and |
| the Old town, facing towards the harbour. The | | | | enlivened by a glance into Mombasa's recent past. |
| buildings lining the square used to hold some of the | | | | |