| spent the night in the Udzungwa Mountains we | | | | tree-top viewing platform we headed towards the |
| watched the sunrise over the Kilombero from the | | | | river with Saidi. He beckoned us to a large Mitumbwi |
| top of Sanje Falls. The valley stretched out before | | | | (dugout canoe). This was so large that we could |
| us, first sugar cane fields and a mist shrouded hint of | | | | place 2 of our camping chairs in it and still have |
| the game planes beyond. This was our destination | | | | excellent stability. This canoe was used for |
| today. | | | | transporting the dried fish from the entire village to |
| We drove through the villages and colourful shambas | | | | market in Ifakara. The fishermen themselves use |
| until we reached Ifakara. This dusty town has a real | | | | much less stable smaller canoes and are occassionaly |
| wild-west feel to it. We stopped at the vibrant | | | | lost to hippo and crocodile. |
| market and explored it with our guide whilst our cook | | | | We glided silently upstream, the only sound other |
| bought fresh provisions. The stalls were packed with | | | | than the chatter of birds the dip of Saidi’s |
| fresh vegetables and it was obvious that the farms | | | | punt and Suliman’s paddle. We were able to |
| in this area were very productive. | | | | approach very close to many colourful birds and |
| Leaving Ifakara we drove the 8km to Kivokoni | | | | basking corocodiles. I counted about 50 species of |
| where we crossed the Kilombero River by ferry. As | | | | bird in one hours canoeing on the river. The diversity |
| we crossed we saw a pod of hippo blowing | | | | was incredible. My favorite site was approaching close |
| downstream and heard their distinctive grunt. The | | | | to a large colony of White Fronted Bee Eaters, these |
| banks were lined with reeds and many brightly | | | | vibrant birds make nests in holes in the mud of the |
| coloured weaver birds. | | | | bank. We were directly below them when they took |
| We picked up some tasty fried fresh water shrimps | | | | fright and with a rushing of wings a multicoloured |
| on the other side and drove into the heart of the | | | | cloud passed about a metre over our heads. |
| wetland. The Kilombero Valley is the largest seasonal | | | | We returned at sunset, seeing the sun sink behind |
| wetland in East Africa. The river is fed by the | | | | the Udzungwa Mts Range turning the water |
| catchment from the Udzungwa Mountains and the | | | | shimmering turquoise was something truly memorable. |
| Mahenge Escarpement and in the rainy season it | | | | After hot showers we had a superb fish diner. Fried |
| bursts its banks flooding the plains. The Kilombero is | | | | talapia caught that morning accompanied by stewed |
| the main water regulator of the Rufiji ecosystem and | | | | tiger fish. After dinner we adjourned to the local bar |
| has been gazetted as a RAMSAR site (a wetland of | | | | with our guide, here friendly fishermen beat us |
| international importance). It is also home to the only | | | | repeatedly at Bao (a board game involving many |
| viable population of Puku (a specialized wetland | | | | stones which you try to take possession of — |
| antelope) and their associated large lion population. | | | | based on sheep steeling apparently) and Drafts! |
| We left the main road and drove into the bush, the | | | | The hustle and bustle of the village woke us early |
| shamba giving way to wooded savanna. As we | | | | and we enjoyed a full breakfast. Sated, we |
| headed towards Boomer-Ulanga Forest saw a group | | | | immediately went down, clutching our fresh coffee, |
| of heartebeest in the distance and a snake eagle | | | | to the riverside to see the catch come in and look |
| hunting. The miombo gave way to riverine tangle | | | | for the endemic Kilombero Weaver and Cisticola. It |
| with numerous elephant signs. After a short while | | | | was a timeless site seeing the Mitumbwi returning |
| (with a minor delay caused by a fallen tree that was | | | | from a nights work. We watched our cook acquire us |
| blocking our path) we emerged into the grassland. | | | | some more fresh fish. |
| Here the track was barely discernable and out local | | | | There was time for a village tour before we |
| guide Saidi ranged ahead of the car checking the | | | | departed and we saw the smoking racks, local |
| route. This was about as off the beaten track as it is | | | | brewery (making Teka from millet) and fish net |
| possible to be! | | | | making. The net makers showed proudly the large |
| The long grass gave way and we were on the side | | | | mesh size — designed only to take the big |
| of the river. We arrived at the community campsite | | | | fish. I hope that this trend is common to all of the |
| next to a picturesque village. The local children were | | | | fishing villages on the Kilombero and that it is not too |
| out in force to greet us. A striking difference was | | | | late for the fishery. |
| that here they greeted us respectfully, | | | | We signed the vistor’s book before saying |
| “Shikamoing” us rather than asking for pens or | | | | our thanks and goodbyes to the elders. I had |
| money (which happens far too often in touristy | | | | enjoyed my stay next to the Kilombero River and |
| areas). The camp was swiftly erected as we | | | | resolved that the next visit would be for longer. This |
| enjoyed a cold soda whilst our guide explained about | | | | was some of the best bird watching I have |
| the village. | | | | experienced in Tanzania and combined with the |
| The majority of the people here are Wandamba | | | | unspoilt local culture the Kilombero is simply magical. |
| (People of the Valley) and make their living through | | | | I’m currently looking forward to visiting next |
| fishing. The size of the catch has declined in recent | | | | January when a couple of new lodges are going to |
| years due to over fishing and the use of mosquito | | | | open, this will mean there is an alternative to camping |
| nets (thoughtfully provided free by a well meaning | | | | and will hopefully increase the popularity of the |
| NGO) for fishing Dagar (small fish). The community | | | | Kilombero Valley. Tourism can clearly benefit the |
| campsite was started in order to try to supplement | | | | people of the valley but it must be conducted in a |
| the reduced village income. | | | | sensitive manner. |
| After a pleasant lunch and a relaxing rest on the | | | | |