Wild Things Tanzania Safaris - Birding On The Kilombero River

spent the night in the Udzungwa Mountains wetree-top viewing platform we headed towards the
watched the sunrise over the Kilombero from theriver with Saidi. He beckoned us to a large Mitumbwi
top of Sanje Falls. The valley stretched out before(dugout canoe). This was so large that we could
us, first sugar cane fields and a mist shrouded hint ofplace 2 of our camping chairs in it and still have
the game planes beyond. This was our destinationexcellent stability. This canoe was used for
today.transporting the dried fish from the entire village to
We drove through the villages and colourful shambasmarket in Ifakara. The fishermen themselves use
until we reached Ifakara. This dusty town has a realmuch less stable smaller canoes and are occassionaly
wild-west feel to it. We stopped at the vibrantlost to hippo and crocodile.
market and explored it with our guide whilst our cookWe glided silently upstream, the only sound other
bought fresh provisions. The stalls were packed withthan the chatter of birds the dip of Saidi’s
fresh vegetables and it was obvious that the farmspunt and Suliman’s paddle. We were able to
in this area were very productive.approach very close to many colourful birds and
Leaving Ifakara we drove the 8km to Kivokonibasking corocodiles. I counted about 50 species of
where we crossed the Kilombero River by ferry. Asbird in one hours canoeing on the river. The diversity
we crossed we saw a pod of hippo blowingwas incredible. My favorite site was approaching close
downstream and heard their distinctive grunt. Theto a large colony of White Fronted Bee Eaters, these
banks were lined with reeds and many brightlyvibrant birds make nests in holes in the mud of the
coloured weaver birds.bank. We were directly below them when they took
We picked up some tasty fried fresh water shrimpsfright and with a rushing of wings a multicoloured
on the other side and drove into the heart of thecloud passed about a metre over our heads.
wetland. The Kilombero Valley is the largest seasonalWe returned at sunset, seeing the sun sink behind
wetland in East Africa. The river is fed by thethe Udzungwa Mts Range turning the water
catchment from the Udzungwa Mountains and theshimmering turquoise was something truly memorable.
Mahenge Escarpement and in the rainy season itAfter hot showers we had a superb fish diner. Fried
bursts its banks flooding the plains. The Kilombero istalapia caught that morning accompanied by stewed
the main water regulator of the Rufiji ecosystem andtiger fish. After dinner we adjourned to the local bar
has been gazetted as a RAMSAR site (a wetland ofwith our guide, here friendly fishermen beat us
international importance). It is also home to the onlyrepeatedly at Bao (a board game involving many
viable population of Puku (a specialized wetlandstones which you try to take possession of —
antelope) and their associated large lion population.based on sheep steeling apparently) and Drafts!
We left the main road and drove into the bush, theThe hustle and bustle of the village woke us early
shamba giving way to wooded savanna. As weand we enjoyed a full breakfast. Sated, we
headed towards Boomer-Ulanga Forest saw a groupimmediately went down, clutching our fresh coffee,
of heartebeest in the distance and a snake eagleto the riverside to see the catch come in and look
hunting. The miombo gave way to riverine tanglefor the endemic Kilombero Weaver and Cisticola. It
with numerous elephant signs. After a short whilewas a timeless site seeing the Mitumbwi returning
(with a minor delay caused by a fallen tree that wasfrom a nights work. We watched our cook acquire us
blocking our path) we emerged into the grassland.some more fresh fish.
Here the track was barely discernable and out localThere was time for a village tour before we
guide Saidi ranged ahead of the car checking thedeparted and we saw the smoking racks, local
route. This was about as off the beaten track as it isbrewery (making Teka from millet) and fish net
possible to be!making. The net makers showed proudly the large
The long grass gave way and we were on the sidemesh size — designed only to take the big
of the river. We arrived at the community campsitefish. I hope that this trend is common to all of the
next to a picturesque village. The local children werefishing villages on the Kilombero and that it is not too
out in force to greet us. A striking difference waslate for the fishery.
that here they greeted us respectfully,We signed the vistor’s book before saying
“Shikamoing” us rather than asking for pens orour thanks and goodbyes to the elders. I had
money (which happens far too often in touristyenjoyed my stay next to the Kilombero River and
areas). The camp was swiftly erected as weresolved that the next visit would be for longer. This
enjoyed a cold soda whilst our guide explained aboutwas some of the best bird watching I have
the village.experienced in Tanzania and combined with the
The majority of the people here are Wandambaunspoilt local culture the Kilombero is simply magical.
(People of the Valley) and make their living throughI’m currently looking forward to visiting next
fishing. The size of the catch has declined in recentJanuary when a couple of new lodges are going to
years due to over fishing and the use of mosquitoopen, this will mean there is an alternative to camping
nets (thoughtfully provided free by a well meaningand will hopefully increase the popularity of the
NGO) for fishing Dagar (small fish). The communityKilombero Valley. Tourism can clearly benefit the
campsite was started in order to try to supplementpeople of the valley but it must be conducted in a
the reduced village income.sensitive manner.
After a pleasant lunch and a relaxing rest on the