4X4 Adventure in Deepest Africa

OK, I admit it - I'm soft on Africa. The African bushpost and traveled along the Okavango River
is my dream . . . and my passion.Imagine the rollingsouthwards to Sehitwa before turning north east to
hills shimmering before you in the glow of dawn, theMaun, the capital of the Okavango Delta.After
special golden light at sunset, the incomparable wildlifestocking up on supplies, we left for our campsite just
right next to you, the baobabs withering in theoutside town on the banks of the Thamalakane
blistering sun, the camp out in the bush - at theseRiver. We jumped at the opportunity of a scenic
moments you are in contact with the very essencesundowner flight over the delta, our pilot swooping
of your primeval being!I have been on safari in Africadown low over the herds of animals heading for their
many times. It is definitely a favorite destination. Thisevening drink.Day 8: Moremi - Okavango Delta
particular trip was the highlight of all my AfricanEarly morning we head for Moremi Game Reserve in
excursions - a 4X4 12 day camping safari thatthe Okavango Delta. The Okavango Delta in
started in Windhoek, the beautiful capital of Namibia,Botswana is one of the last totally unspoiled Wildlife
through some of the roughest terrain on the planetareas in Africa. The unique ecosystem is a labyrinth
through like the Okavango Delta in Botswana and upof lagoons, lakes and hidden channels covering an
to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.Known to the localarea of over 17,000 square km and the largest inland
African tribesman as "Mosi-oa-Tunya" - the smokedelta in the world. Trapped in the parched Kalahari
that thunders - Vic falls are truly a spectacularsands it is a magnet for the wildlife who depend on
site.Remarkably preserved in its natural state and onethe permanent waters of this unique feature. The
of the most spectacular natural wonders of theOkavanga hosts over 400 species of birds, as well as
world, the falls inspire magical inspiration to all visitors.lions, elephants, hyenas, wild dog, buffalo, hippo,
At 1708 meters wide and a drop of between 90 -crocodiles, antelope and many other smaller animals
107 meters, this is the largest curtain of water onsuch as warthogs, monkeys, mongoose and
earth.The falls and the surrounding area have beenmore.We take our time exploring the wetlands and
declared National Parks and a World Heritage Site,its myriad inhabitants en route to our next campsite
thus preserving the area from excessiveat Moremi.Day 9: Okavango Delta
commercialization. The Falls are spectacularMore game viewing, this time from a dugout canoe -
throughout the year, but February onwards, afterknown here as a Mokoro. We paddled deep into the
the rain season, has the heaviest flow and volume ofdelta from Xakanaxa spying all manner of
spray.I find that a self drive 4x4 is the best way towater-bound species on the way - hippos, gigantic
explore the natural wonders of Southern Africa. Oncrocodiles and more. Shades of Tarzan! Mind boggling
this trip we booked a 4X4 campervan which isto see these animals so close.Day 10: Chobe
basically a modified LandRover or other 4X4 withAfter an early breakfast we hit the road again.
additional gas tanks, gear racks and an unfolding tent(Never short of food on this trip!)Heading north to
on the roof. After picking up our vehicle at the rentalthe Mababe Depression, we entered Chobe National
depot we set off as part of a convoy led by aPark at the Mababe gate. A major feature of Chobe
qualified guide. While I usually prefer to wanderNational Park is its elephant population. These herds
around on my own, the terrain here is so rugged andcomprise what is probably the largest surviving
so full of wild game, that you are definitely advisedcontinuous elephant population, currently estimated at
to take the guided convoy route.One of the greatesta totals of some 120,000 elephants. They are also
highlights of any Safari is the gin and tonic sundownerthe largest of African elephants, but their tusks are
after a hard day in the bush. Roughing it in Africa isbrittle so there are not many huge tuskers among
more than a gin and tonic with a bottled lime juicethem. The elephant population has built up steadily in
instead of fresh, however. This is no pussycat trip;recent years and has largely escaped the illegal ivory
this is hardcore Africa... everyone is expected to pitchhunters of the 1970s and 80s.The herds are
in and help, even if it means dragging the 4x4 out ofmigratory, making seasonal movements of up to 200
the mud. We did - one of our team-mates got stuckkms from the Chobe and Linyati rivers where they
in the fine sand - and we made it with the broadestconcentrate in the dry season to the pans in the
smiles we've ever had.Starting from Windhoek, asoutheast to which they migrate during the wet
perfectly preserved German colonial style townseason.After an extremely pleasant day of game
(Namibia was formerly German South West Africa),watching we moved on to our campsite at Savuti.
every day of this trip held a new and different thrill.The Chobe river valley practically swarms with
From big game, bushmen tribes-people andelephants. Most of the day they are scattered
spectacular natural wonders, this trip still makes myaround the hillsides surrounding the valley, and as the
heart sing!Day 1: Windhoeksun begins to sink towards the horizon, they descend
We flew into Windhoek on South African Airways'to the valley in their hundreds to swim, roll in the
morning flight from Johannesburg. After picking upmud, eat and socialise. After pitching camp in the late
our 4X4 and meeting with our guide and some of ourafternoon we moved down to the riverbed to await
tour mates, we spent the rest of the day exploringthe arrival of our elephant friends for their evening
this great little city. A combination of modern andsundowner. We didn't have too long to wait. They
German colonial style architecture, this slightlywere soon crossing the river in droves, in both
provincial city is quite neat and clean.The influence ofdirections. This carried on for an hour or two, until
German language and culture is still very muchboth banks were liberally covered in elephants of all
apparent, with plenty German-style restaurants andsizes, from this year's calves through to a few who
other cultural remnants. Although English is the officialmust have been upwards of 50 years of age. Can
language, German can be used just aboutyou picture this? It was happening right in front of us!
anywhere.Day 2: Etosha - OkaukuejoAbsolutely amazing.Day 11: Chobe
After a light breakfast we left bright and early onThe memories of last night's elephant lingers on into
the main highway north from Windhoek.Passingthe early morning .....Today we were awakened by
through Otjowarongo we arrived at the Etoshathe unique waking of a Fish Eagle perched on the
National Park. Before setting up camp for the nighttree behind our campervan. What can beat that? We
we went on a sun-downer game drive. Later in thetraveled further north through the Chobe Forest
evening we sat on the banks of the floodlitReserve to Ihaha. We saw ample game along the
waterhole bordering the camp, watching the animalsway - warthogs and waterbuck predominate. At
coming in to drink.Day 3: Etosha - Namutonidays end we camp on the Chobe River bank after a
A full day of game viewing today, and our firstgame drive along the river.Day 12: Victoria Falls -
glimpse of lion and rhino not 10 meters from ourLodge
campervan. What a fantastic sight. At day's end weOur final day here in the wild - and we're on our
reached Namutoni, our camp site for the night.Day 4:way to the smoke that thunders - or Vic Falls,
Tsumkwediscovered by David Livingstone back in 1855.We
Exiting the Etosha National Park we headed east viacover the 130 kms in 4 hours and arrive at the falls
Tsumeb and Grootfontein to Tsumkwe in the heartat noon. Not much seems to have changed here
of Bushman land. The cultural experience of a visit tosince Livingstone's time. The falls are a national
a bushman village is quite indescribable, so I won'theritage sight and so are relatively uncommercialized.
even try. But make sure you don't miss it on yourWe quickly returned our vehicles to the depot and
tour.Day 5: Khaudummade a beeline for our lodge and a nice long bath.
Following an off-road track of deep and loose sand,What a luxury! The rest of the day and most of the
we head north into the Khaudum Game Reserve.next we spent absorbing the grandeur of the falls,
Another day to enjoy game viewing.Day 6: Popa Fallsand finally headed to the airport to catch our plane
An early start as we headed out before dawn for aback to Johannesburg and civilization.If you're after
game drive in the area of our camp before headinghardcore Africa - this West African Safari is
further north to Popa Falls. We managed to track adefinitely the ULTIMATE African experience!Get
pride of lions stalking their prey, but were not able tomore out-of the way travel ideas at http//: Rosen is
view the kill. Continuing north, in the afternoon wea professional traveller and travel writer. He travels
visited the falls and the Mahango Game Reserve.Daythe world several times a year in search of the
7: Maunperfect travel adventure.
We crossed into Botswana at the Mohembo border